Chinahas been making incredible strides in the specialty coffee scene in recent years, and this lot is exactly why. Tanat Coffee selected a blend of Caturra and Catuai varieties from the village of Xiding and transformed it into an espresso that is intense, juicy, and beautifully sweet .The very first sip evokes blueberry liqueur with a citrusy juiciness. The flavor gradually transitions into a softer milk chocolate note that rounds out the entire cup. It’s not overly wild, but rather an elegant and syrupy-sweet profile that holds together from start to finish. The acidity is medium, the body silky, and the espresso feels like a fruity dessert.
Behind this lot is the Xiding Washing Station in the Menghai region of China’s Yunnan province, which is one of the centers of the new generation of Chinese specialty coffee. Local farmers here mainly grow Caturra and Catuai varieties at higher altitudes around 1,600–1,800 meters above sea level, where the cooler climate helps the cherries ripen more slowly and results in a more pronounced sweetness in the cup. It is precisely this combination of modern processing and the conditions in Yunnan that demonstrates today that China is no longer just a marginal coffee-producing country, but a source of truly distinctive and experimental lots.
Precise processing played a key role. After sorting in water from a mountain spring, the cherries undergo a double anaerobic fermentation lasting a total of 72 hours. First, 24 hours of dry fermentation, followed by another phase that alternates between a dry phase during the day and a wet phase at night. The entire process is strictly controlled to preserve the purity of flavors while bringing out the greatest possible complexity. The subsequent slow drying under shade nets lasts seven days and helps preserve the distinctive fruitiness and syrupy texture that is typical of this coffee. Tanat Coffee from Paris is among the roasters that take extreme care in sourcing and crafting the roast profile, and at Xiding, this is immediately apparent. This espresso is modern, just the right amount of funky, and perfectly showcases the interesting coffees being produced in China today.