Indonesia’s Asman Arianto from the Brno-based roastery Poppy Beans presents Sumatra in a completely different light than you may be used to. Forget the heavy, earthy profiles that people often associate with Indonesian coffee. This is a clean, elegant, and surprisingly juicy cup that will win you over with its harmony from the very first sip. The flavor features ripe pineapple, the sweetness of golden raisins, and a subtle hint of white currant, which gives the coffee a pleasantly sparkling character. The entire profile is complemented by a tea-like lightness, a long sweet aftertaste, and a velvety body, making the coffee feel incredibly smooth. The dry aroma evokes flowers and light spices; the acidity is citrusy but beautifully rounded and not at all aggressive.
Behind this coffee is Asman Arianto, a producer from the Aceh region in northern Sumatra, who became well-known thanks to his success in the Cup of Excellence competition. His Asman Gayo mill is located in the Pegasing region near the town of Takengon and collaborates with smallholder farmers from the villages of Pantan Musara. Many of them had to leave their homes years ago due to a natural disaster and literally started over from scratch. It was coffee that became their path to rebuilding their lives and the entire community. Today, they focus much more on quality and meticulous work with every harvest. The Aceh region is fascinating in its own right; coffee trees grow here on volcanic soil at altitudes of 1,300 to 1,650 meters, surrounded by rainforests and the dramatic landscape of the Barisan Mountains. The region’s uniqueness is further underscored by the fact that most local producers are smallholder farmers, and a large proportion of the growers here are women, who are a key part of the local coffee culture.
Washed processing is relatively rare in Sumatra, which is precisely why this coffee tastes so clean and transparent. After harvesting, the cherries are transported to a central mill, where they are pulped and fermented for up to 36 hours in open tanks. Subsequent washing helps remove the remaining sweet layer around the bean, allowing the distinct character of the Ateng, Catimor, Bor Bor, and Timor varieties to shine through. Drying takes place slowly on raised beds, in solar dryers, or on tarps, which contributes to the balance and clarity of the final cup. The washed method beautifully highlights the fruitiness, tea-like lightness, and long, sweet aftertaste, making the coffee incredibly clean, elegant, and layered. This is a Sumatra that can surprise even experienced specialty coffee lovers.
- Producer: Asman Arianto
- Processing station: Asman Gayo
- Altitude: 1,300–1,650 m a.s.l.
- Soil type: volcanic